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Employing A Sex Doll For The First Time: A Complete Beginner's Guide
Maybe you've just purchased your first doll, or maybe you're on the verge of doing so. Virtually all new owners go through a moment of mild panic at certain point: a 35 kg silicone human out of the package on the living space floor, and you standing there wondering now what? This guide is the answer to that question. No filler and no assumption that you have any idea what you're doing, just the day-to-day essentials you will genuinely need in the initial week plus the tips that will save you from pricey errors in the initial month. Read it twice: once before she arrives and once again after, as the second time through makes much more sense and helps you notice things you missed first time round.
 
You will would like to do a few things before you even open the package, as shifting her about becomes considerably harder once she's out of it. Settle exactly where she's going to live, and "somewhere in the bedroom" does not count, so pick a specific place like a wardrobe, a corner, or a storage case. Seeing as dolls are weighty and unwieldy, improvising storage at 11 p.m. with an undressed doll in your arms is a thing you definitely would like to prevent. Whether she'll rest on a bed, floor, or storage container, evident the space and verify it is clean and free of anything that could transfer dye, as dark-toned blankets, poorly dyed fabrics, and anything that might release dye are risky. If you've got carpet, lay something smooth under her. Any low bed can droop under her load with time, so inspect it won't.
 
Before she arrives, get your supplies ready:
1. Cornflour or baby powder (for TPE dolls)
2. A blow-dryer (for freeing up joints)
3. A spotless, pale cloth (for the material check)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a standard hairbrush)
5. Drying sticks (for the orifices)
6. Mineral oil made for TPE (where it applies)
7. A soft powder brush (for powdering)
 
It is all cheap, but every bit of it matters. For maybe about £20 you get the whole kit, and that is the distinction among a doll that stays in good condition and one that doesn't. Do not rip the box open: open it with attention, and if it is damaged, image it before you open it, because that is your only safeguard for a warranty case. When it is open, do a quick inspection: verify for rips in the armpits and groin, be sure all fingers are undamaged, and verify the head sculpt matches what you paid for. If anything's wrong, picture it straight away and tell the retailer before you do anything else, as a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
 
After that comes the aspect that catches virtually every new buyer by surprise: she will feel rigid. The joints are tight from the factory, which is perfectly standard and does not mean any part is broken. The joints need freeing up before you can pose her, and the technique is easy. Use a hair dryer on a low setting, not hot, to soften the TPE around every joint, next steadily move each joint through its entire range of motion, working through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. Don't force anything, and if a joint will not move, warm it up certain more. Spend a complete hour on this. It seems excessive, but it is what separates a doll you will truly pose from one that ends up frozen in one pose as you gave up.
 
She's weightier than she looks, which surprises everyone. A 35kg doll doesn't seem that hefty right until you lift her from a low position and the weight is concentrated in the wrong places, so use good lifting technique, squatting down and lifting with your legs in place of your back. Where possible, hug her, holding under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, as the closer she is to your centre of balance, the less load you will feel. TPE and silicone both hold heat pretty well, so she's warmer than you anticipate, and the first time you contact her correctly she'll feel less plastic than you were likely expecting. People say their dolls feel alive mainly as the cloth truly yields to touch in a manner that catches you off guard, not seeing as of movement or AI.
 
TPE gets sticky in time, especially in summer heat or after cleansing, so keep up a regular powdering regime: a light coating of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft make-up brush keeps the exterior even and dust-free, and it should be done after each cleansing session. TPE sheds oil in time and needs replenishment, so oil her every so often: a thin coat of mineral oil specifically formulated for TPE dolls every three months or so keeps the cloth soft and prevents splitting, but do not use too much, as an excess of oil makes the skin slippery and picks up attract dust faster than dried-out skin does.
 
Cleansing isn't a one-off, it is a process. After use:
1. Take out any inserts and wash them separately
2. Clean the orifice areas with lukewarm water and gentle cleanser
3. Dry everything totally with drying stands (between 15 and 20 minutes)
4. Dust the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Keep her the right way
 
Do not treat this as optional, seeing as if you skip it you will get mould building up inside her in as little as a few weeks. The entire procedure takes approximately 45 minutes, which is longer than most buyers anticipate, and it is the chief reason veteran owners switch to swappable inserts, which cut that time approximately in half.
 
This is where new owners make the worst error, seeing as they do not think about storage until it is a concern. Hanging is best, using a heavy-duty ceiling mount rated for at least 60 kg with a dedicated loop, which holds her in the same position without putting stress on the joints, and this is the method most veteran owners use. You can store her lying down as well, but take maintenance: even surfaces are fine and uneven ones aren't, and long stretches on her back can squash her buttocks or breasts, so change the position now and next. UV damages both TPE and silicone and discolours wigs and tinted details fast, so never leave her in bright sunlight, and keep her in a cabinet or a covered storage container.
 
The internet has a lot of opinions about owning a doll, most of which are false or overstated. Yes, she's hefty and her joints need attention, but you shouldn't feel you have to be "careful" in the sense of treating her like porcelain, as she's designed to be used and she's not made of glass. Embarrassment isn't needed, as millions of owners own sex dolls, the industry has grown massively in the past ten years, and the shame has faded rapidly, which makes owning one a personal decision and not a flaw in character.
 
You shouldn't feel you have to treat her like a person either. Plenty of owners build intricate characters and personalities for their dolls, which is great and element of the appeal for many people, but it is optional, and wanting a doll for bodily pleasure and companionship without the roleplay is an entirely valid way to use one. The only thing you truly need to get right is the hands-on side, as everything else is individual taste and nobody else has a say on how you use something you've paid for.
 
Each owner ends up with their own procedure, and mine, for what that's worth, is easy. Ahead of every session, free up the joints, not for a solid hour of the first time but for just five minutes or so to check that nothing is rigid, and powder at the end of every clean without fail. Examine the dye try on any fresh clothing even if you've used the same brand before, keep a second wig within reach as synthetic cloth takes longer to dry off than you'd expect and you do not would like to be waiting, and put away her carefully every time. None of this is fiddly, it is just the process that holds your doll in good shape for many years on end instead of months.
 
The initial month teaches you much of what you should know, and early blunders tend to be low-cost ones if you're careful. Difficulties that show up later are the pricey ones, and they virtually always stem from something skipped in the first couple of weeks. A joint eased too aggressively, a material tested on the doll as opposed to a cloth, a storage setup that looked okay until the pressure pressed down into it. Go slowly at the beginning and the rest looks after itself.
 
You will also need to know what to do when something eventually goes wrong, seeing as it will. Maybe a tear in the armpit, a loose joint, or a dye mark that will not come out. Panicking and assuming the doll is beyond saving is the instinct, but nearly everything short of a broken frame is fixable if you notice it early. Repair packs for TPE cost very little and deal with compact rips. You can tighten or replace loose joints. The one thing that does not come out is dye marks, this is why the dye test matters so much. Work out where the fixable difficulties are and stop fretting over the ones that aren't.
 
Serious purchases deserve respect, and a doll is one, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." Skip freeing up the joints, regular powdering, and correct storage and you will be replacing her far sooner than you expected, but do them and you will get years out of her. After a tough first week, it becomes habit. More info at this rosslink. Also check out  additional reading (https://bloodhunterviktor.com/bhforums/showthread.php?tid=874) not forgetting sites such as  these details (http://forum.anchorpointpodcast.com/viewtopic.php?t=387361) on top of  look at this (http://pipo.com.ua/forum/index.php?showtopic=29137) not to mention  look what i found (https://lorinacosmetics.com.ua/index.php?topic=541.new) and don't forget  read review (http://pipo.com.ua/forum/index.php?showtopic=29982) together with  these details (http://1.s.2.free.fr/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=555940) alongside all  recommended you read (https://rosenfeld-tech.com/index.php?topic=279.new) alongside all  get more info (http://talknaija.com/viewtopic.php?t=300169) not forgetting sites such as  visit the site (http://guitarproof.free.fr/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=2523) and  my response (https://fitnessnationforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1446) for more.