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A Beginner's Guide To Using A Sex Doll: Everything You Need To Know
So you've purchased your first doll, or you're on the point of doing so. Unbox a 35 kg silicone human in your living space and there's a moment of mild panic as you stand there and ask yourself: now what? This guide is the answer to that question. You will not find filler or presumptions that you have done this before here, just real-world pointers on what you will in fact need in your first week and how to steer obvious of costly errors in your first month. Read it twice: once before she arrives and once again after, because the second time through will make significantly more sense and helps you notice things you skipped over the first time.
 
Before you even open the box, several things are worth doing, as after she's out of the package, moving her around becomes considerably harder. Settle exactly where she's going to live, and "somewhere in the bedroom" does not count, so pick a specific area like a cupboard, a corner, or a storage box. Dolls are weighty and difficult to manage, and you will not wish to be improvising storage at 11 at night with an unclothed doll in your arms. Dye transfer is a genuine risk, so evident the space she'll rest on, whether it is a bed, floor, or storage package, and verify it is clean and free of dark-toned blankets, low-quality fabrics, and anything else that might release dye. Carpet calls for something smooth under her. If you've got a low bed, make sure it isn't going to give way under her pressure in time.
 
Have your kit ready before she arrives:
1. Cornflour or baby powder (for TPE dolls)
2. A blow-dryer (for freeing up joints)
3. A clean, light-toned cloth (for the cloth try)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a standard hairbrush)
5. Drying supports (for the orifices)
6. Mineral oil formulated for TPE (where relevant)
7. A soft make-up brush (for powdering)
 
None of this is costly, but all of it matters. For around about £20 you get the complete kit, and that is the variation among a doll that stays in good condition and one that does not. Take your time opening the package as opposed to tearing into it, and if it is damaged, picture it first, seeing as that is your sole protection for a return claim. A quick inspection comes next: verify for splits in the armpits and groin, confirm all fingers are in one piece, and check the head sculpt matches what you bought. If something's wrong, image it at once and tell the retailer before you do anything else, since a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
 
Next comes the component that takes virtually every new buyer by surprise: she will feel inflexible. Out of the factory, the joints are tight, which is perfectly regular and does not mean any part is broken. You must free up the joints before you can pose her, and the technique is easy. Set a hair dryer to warm, not hot, and soften the TPE at every joint, then slowly work each joint through its whole range of motion, covering the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. If a joint will not move, warm it more, and never force anything. Set aside an entire hour for this. It sounds excessive, but it is what separates a doll you will in fact pose from one that ends up frozen in one pose as you gave up.
 
Everyone is caught out by how weighty she is compared with how she looks. 35 kg does not seem that weighty up to the point you lift her from a low position and the pressure is concentrated in the wrong places, so use correct lifting technique: squat down and lift with your legs as opposed to your back. Bear hug her if possible, gripping under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, as the closer she is to your centre of mass, the less load you will feel. She's also warmer than you'd anticipate, since TPE and silicone both hold warmth fairly well, and the first time you feel her sensibly she'll feel less plastic than you were probably expecting. The key reason people call their dolls lifelike isn't movement or AI, it is that the fabric genuinely reacts when touched in a manner that startles you.
 
TPE gets clammy in time, especially in hot weather or after cleansing, so keep up a regular powdering regime: a fine dusting of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft cosmetic brush holds the exterior smooth and free of dust, and it should be done at the end of every cleansing session. TPE sheds oil with time and needs replenishment, so oil her now and next: a small amount of mineral oil made specifically for TPE dolls every couple of months keeps the cloth soft and prevents drying out, but go easy, as too much oil makes the finish slippery and gathers dust faster than dehydrated skin does.
 
Cleaning is a process instead of a one-off. After use:
1. Pull out any inserts and wash them on their own
2. Clean the cavities with lukewarm water and mild detergent
3. Dry everything entirely with drying rods (between 15 and 20 minutes)
4. Dust the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Keep her the right way
 
This isn't optional, seeing as skip it and you will get mould developing inside her in as little as a few weeks. The entire procedure takes approximately 45 minutes, which is longer than most owners anticipate, and it's the chief reason long-term owners switch to removable liners, which cut that time just about in half.
 
The most common slip-up novice owners make is not thinking about storage until it is an issue. Most long-term owners hang their dolls, using a heavy-duty overhead hook rated for at least 60 kg with a dedicated loop, which holds her in one position without placing pressure on the joints. Storing her lying down works too, but be careful: flat surfaces are fine and rough ones aren't, and leaving her on her back for long periods can flatten the buttocks or breasts, so vary the position now and then. Never leave her in strong sunlight, as UV damages both TPE and silicone and fades wigs and painted details fast, so a cupboard or a covered carry case is ideal.
 
Most of the many opinions the internet has about owning dolls are wrong or exaggerated. You shouldn't feel you have to be "careful" in the sense of treating her like porcelain, because yes, she's bulky and she has joints that need attention, but she's also designed to be used and she's not made of glass. There's no need to be ashamed: huge numbers of people own sex dolls, the sector has grown tremendously in the past decade, and the shame has faded rapidly, so owning one is an individual choice and not a moral failing.
 
Treating her like a person isn't a requirement either. Plenty of owners build complex characters and characters for their dolls, which is great and aspect of the appeal for many people, but it is optional, and wanting a doll for physical pleasure and companionship without the roleplay is a totally valid way to use one. Get the real-world side right and the rest is personal taste, seeing as nobody else has a say on how you use something you've paid for.
 
Each owner ends up with their own process, and mine, if it helps, is easy. Limber up the joints before each session, not the entire hour from the first time but just a short while to verify that nothing is inflexible, and powder following every clean without exception. Inspect the dye try on any new outfits even if you've used the same brand before, keep a second wig to hand seeing as synthetic hair takes longer to dry off than you'd anticipate and you don't wish to be waiting, and put away her correctly every time. Nothing here is fiddly, it is simply the process that holds your doll in great condition for many years on end in place of months.
 
Most of what you have to know will come from your first month, and the blunders you make early tend to be inexpensive ones when you're careful. The things that go wrong later are the pricey ones, and they practically always come down to something skipped in the first couple of weeks. A joint freed up too aggressively, a material tested on the doll as opposed to a cloth, a storage solution that looked fine until the pressure pressed down into it. Go slowly at the beginning and the rest looks after itself.
 
Something will eventually go wrong, so there's also the question of what to do when it does. Maybe a tear in the armpit, a loose joint, or a blemish that will not come out. Your instinct will be to panic and assume the doll is done for, but practically everything short of a snapped frame is fixable if you place it early. Mending kits for TPE cost very little and deal with compact rips. Tightening or replacing loose joints is possible. The one thing that does not come out is dye marks, and that is why the cloth test matters so much. Learn where the fixable problems are and stop stressing about the ones that aren't.
 
Serious purchases deserve respect, and a doll is one, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." You will get years out of her if you limber up the joints, powder her often, and store her with care, but if you skip those things you will be replacing her much sooner than you expected. After a tough first week, it becomes habit. More info at this rosslink. Also check out  like this (https://dark0de.org/showthread.php?tid=533) not forgetting sites such as  recommended reading (http://forum.exalto-emirates.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=245616) and  index (https://forums.librenetwork.org/showthread.php?tid=425) for more.