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How To Use A Sex Doll: A Beginner's Guide To Getting It Right
So you've ordered your first doll, or you're on the point of doing so. Practically all new owners hit a bout of brief panic at this stage: a 35 kg silicone human unboxed in the living space, and you standing there wondering now what? The answer to that question is what follows here. Anticipate hands-on recommendations only: what you will truly need in the opening week and what will save you from expensive mistakes in the opening month, with no fluff and no assumption that you already know. A second read after she arrives will make much more sense than the first, so read it once beforehand and once afterwards, when you will notice things you missed the first time.
 
You will wish to do a handful of jobs before you so much as open the package, as moving her around becomes significantly harder once she's out of it. Make a decision for where she's going to live: not "somewhere in the bedroom" but a specific place, whether it's a wardrobe, a corner, or a carry case. The last thing you would like is to be improvising storage at 11 p.m. with an undressed doll in your arms, as dolls are hefty and unwieldy. Prepare the space she'll rest on, whether it is a bed, floor, or storage package, and examine it is clean and free of anything that could transfer dye, as dark-coloured blankets, low-quality fabrics, and anything that might release dye are a risk. On carpet, lay something smooth underneath her. On a low bed, verify it will not give way under her pressure in time.
 
Get everything you need ready before she arrives:
1. Baby powder or cornstarch (for TPE dolls)
2. A hair dryer (for freeing up joints)
3. A clean, light-toned cloth (for the cloth check)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a regular hairbrush)
5. Drying sticks (for the cavities)
6. Mineral oil made for TPE (if relevant)
7. A soft powder brush (for powdering)
 
It is all cheap, but every bit of it matters. For around £20 you get the full kit, and that is the distinction among a doll that stays in top condition and one that does not. Unpack the box attentively as opposed to tearing into it, and if the package is damaged, image it before you open it, since that is your only cover for a guarantee claim. Once it is open, do a quick inspection: inspect for rips in the armpits and groin, verify all fingers are in one piece, and verify the head sculpt matches the order you placed. Message the vendor before you do anything else if something's wrong, and image it without delay, as a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
 
Nearly every new buyer is taken by surprise by the next element: she will feel stiff. Tight joints are perfectly regular straight from the factory and do not mean any part is broken. Before you can pose her, you must free up the joints, and the technique is straightforward. Soften the TPE at each joint with a blow-dryer on a gentle setting, not hot, then slowly move each joint through its complete range of movement, working through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. If a joint will not move, warm it more, and never force anything. Spend an entire hour on this. That seems like far, but it is the variation among a doll you will in fact pose and a doll that ends up frozen in one pose as you gave up.
 
She's heavier than she looks, and this catches everyone. Right until you lift her from a low position with the weight concentrated in the wrong places, a 35 kg doll doesn't seem like much, so use good lifting technique, squatting down and lifting with your legs instead of your back. Bear hug her when you can, gripping under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, seeing as the closer she is to your centre of mass, the less pressure you will feel. Since TPE and silicone both hold warmth reasonably well, she's warmer than you expect, and she'll feel less plastic than you'd probably expected the first time you feel her correctly. The chief reason people say their dolls feel alive isn't movement or AI, it is that the material genuinely reacts to feel in a manner that takes you by surprise.
 
TPE gets sticky with time, especially in high temperatures or after cleansing, so keep up a regular powdering process: a light coating of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft cosmetic brush holds the skin smooth and free of dust, and it should be done following every cleansing session. TPE sheds oil in time and needs replenishment, so oil her periodically: a light coat of mineral oil formulated especially for TPE dolls a few times a year maintains the cloth soft and prevents cracks, but do not use too much, as an excess of oil makes the skin oily and gathers collect dust sooner than dried-out skin does.
 
Cleaning isn't a one-off, it's a regime. After use:
1. Take out any inserts and wash them separately
2. Clean the orifice areas using warm water and mild detergent
3. Dry everything entirely with drying supports (among 15 and 20 minutes)
4. Dust the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Put her away correctly
 
This isn't optional, as skip it and you will get mould forming inside her in a few weeks. At approximately 45 minutes the full procedure takes longer than the majority of people expect, which is the biggest reason long-term owners switch to detachable inserts, which cut that time more or less in half.
 
Novice owners make their biggest slip-up here, as they do not think about storage until it is a difficulty. Most seasoned owners hang their dolls, using a heavy-duty hanging hook rated for at least 60 kg with a dedicated loop, which holds her in one pose without placing pressure on the joints. Storing her lying down works too, but be careful: even surfaces are fine and bumpy ones aren't, and leaving her on her back for long periods can squash her buttocks or breasts, so vary the position every so often. UV damages both TPE and silicone and fades wigs and tinted details fast, so never leave her in strong sunlight, and keep her in a cabinet or a covered carry case.
 
There's no shortage of internet opinions about owning dolls, and most of them are false or overstated. She's not made of glass, so there's no need to be "careful" in the sense of treating her like porcelain: yes, she's hefty and her joints need attention, but she's also designed to be used. You don't have to be self-conscious, as millions of folk own sex dolls, the sector has grown massively in the past ten years, and the taboo has faded quickly, so if you've chosen to own one, that is a personal decision and not a flaw in character.
 
Nor do you must treat her like a person. Plenty of owners build detailed characters and characters for their dolls, which is great and element of the appeal for many people, but it is optional, and wanting a doll for sexual satisfaction and companionship without the roleplay is an entirely valid way to use one. Get the day-to-day side right and the rest is a matter of taste, seeing as nobody else has a say on how you use something you own.
 
Each owner ends up with their own process, and mine, for whatever it's worth, is simple. Prior to every session, free up the joints, not for a solid hour of the first time but for just five minutes or so to be sure nothing is rigid, and powder after each clean without exception. Keep a backup wig ready, as synthetic hair takes longer to dry off than you'd expect and you do not would like to be waiting, run the cloth try on any new clothing even if you've used the same brand before, and keep her carefully every time. It is not complex, just the regime that maintains your doll in good condition for many years as opposed to months.
 
Month one teaches you the majority of what you should know, and early slip-ups tend to be low-cost ones provided you're careful. The things that go wrong later are the costly ones, and they nearly always originate in something skipped in the early weeks. Examples include a joint loosened too aggressively, a cloth tested on the doll in place of a cloth, and a storage method that appeared fine until the pressure sunk into it. Slow down at the start and the rest takes maintenance of itself.
 
Something will eventually go wrong, so there's also the question of what to do when it does. A tear in the armpit, a loose joint, a mark that will not come out. The instinct is to panic and assume the doll is wrecked, but nearly everything short of a broken frame is fixable if you deal with it early. Repair packs for TPE cost hardly anything and deal with compact rips. You can tighten or replace loose joints. Blemishes are the one thing that does not come out, this is why the cloth test matters so much. Find out which issues are fixable and stop worrying about the ones that aren't.
 
A doll is a big purchase that deserves respect, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." You will get years out of her if you free up the joints, powder her on a regular basis, and put away her sensibly, but if you skip those things you will be replacing her significantly sooner than you expected. Week one is the hardest, and after that it turns into routine. More info at this rosslink. Also check out  dig this (http://forum.dcm-works.net/viewtopic.php?t=12172) for more.