My Community

Beginner's Guide To Using A Sex Doll: Tips For Your First Few Weeks
So you've bought your first doll, or you're on the point of doing so. Unbox a 35 kg silicone human in your living space and there's a moment of slight panic as you stand there and think: now what? This guide is the solution to that question. Expect hands-on pointers only: what you will truly need in the opening week and what will save you from costly blunders in the opening month, with no fluff and no assumption that you have done this before. Reading it again after she arrives will make considerably more sense than the first, so read it once beforehand and once afterwards, when you will place things you missed the first time.
 
When she's out of the package, moving her around becomes much harder, so a few things are worth doing before you even open it. Settle exactly where she's going to live, and "somewhere in the bedroom" does not count, so pick a specific area like a cupboard, a corner, or a storage box. Dolls are weighty and unwieldy, and you will not wish to be improvising storage at 11 at night with an undressed doll in your arms. Whether she'll rest on a bed, floor, or storage box, prepare the space and examine it is clean and free of anything that could transfer dye, because deep-coloured blankets, budget fabrics, and anything that might lose colour are a risk. If you have carpet, put something smooth underneath her. If you have a low bed, inspect that it isn't going to droop under her pressure in time.
 
Get your kit ready before she arrives:
1. Cornstarch or baby powder (for TPE dolls)
2. A hair dryer (for softening joints)
3. A spotless, light-toned cloth (for the cloth test)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a regular hairbrush)
5. Drying supports (for the cavities)
6. Mineral oil formulated for TPE (if relevant)
7. A soft cosmetic brush (for powdering)
 
It is all cheap, but every bit of it matters. For maybe about £20 you get the full kit, and that is the difference among a doll that stays in good condition and one that does not. Go attentively opening the package in place of tearing into it, and if it is damaged, picture it first, as that's your only safeguard for a warranty case. A quick inspection comes next: examine for splits in the armpits and groin, be sure all fingers are unbroken, and verify the head sculpt matches what you bought. If you spot a difficulty, snap it straight away and tell the seller before you do anything else, since a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
 
After that comes the element that takes virtually every new buyer off guard: she will feel inflexible. The joints are tight from the factory, which is entirely normal and does not mean something is broken. Before you can pose her, you will have to free up the joints, and the technique is basic. Soften the TPE at every joint with a blow-dryer on a medium setting, not hot, next attentively move each joint through its complete range of movement, working through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. Do not force anything, and if a joint will not move, warm it up certain more. Spend an entire hour on this. It seems excessive, but it is what separates a doll you will really pose from one that ends up frozen in one pose seeing as you gave up.
 
Everyone is surprised by how weighty she is compared with how she looks. A 35 kg doll does not sound especially hefty up to the point you lift her from a low position and the pressure is concentrated in the wrong places, so use good lifting technique, squatting down and lifting with your legs in place of your back. Hug her where possible, gripping under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, as the closer she is to your centre of mass, the less load you'll feel. TPE and silicone both hold heat pretty well, so she's warmer than you expect, and the first time you feel her sensibly she'll feel less plastic than you were probably expecting. The main reason people say their dolls feel alive isn't movement or AI, it is that the material truly reacts to contact in a method that catches you off guard.
 
TPE gets clammy with time, especially in high temperatures or after cleansing, so powder her routinely: a light coating of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft cosmetic brush maintains the finish smooth and clean, and it should be done at the end of every cleansing session. You also have to oil her periodically, since TPE sheds oil in time and needs replenishment, and a tiny amount of mineral oil designed specifically for TPE dolls every three months or so holds the cloth soft and prevents cracks, even though go easy as too much oil makes the skin oily and gathers attract dust faster than dehydrated skin does.
 
Cleansing is a procedure instead of a one-off. After use:
1. Pull out any inserts and wash them on their own
2. Clean the cavities using warm water and mild detergent
3. Dry everything entirely with drying rods (between 15 and 20 minutes)
4. Dust the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Put her away sensibly
 
This isn't optional, since skip it and you will get mould building up inside her in a matter of weeks. Most buyers expect it to be quicker, but the entire regime takes close to 45 minutes, and that is the biggest reason long-term owners switch to detachable inserts, which cut that time approximately in half.
 
New owners make their biggest blunder here, as they do not think about storage until it is a concern. Most seasoned owners hang their dolls, using a heavy-duty ceiling mount rated for at least 60 kg with a dedicated loop, which maintains her in a single position without putting stress on the joints. Storing her lying down works too, but be careful: level surfaces are fine and rough ones aren't, and leaving her on her back for long stretches can squash her buttocks or breasts, so change the position periodically. Keep her out of direct sun at all times, as UV damages both TPE and silicone and bleaches wigs and tinted details fast, which makes a wardrobe or a covered storage container ideal.
 
Most of the countless opinions the internet has about owning dolls are mistaken or exaggerated. She's not made of glass, so there's no need to be "careful" in the sense of treating her like porcelain: yes, she's weighty and her joints need attention, but she's also designed to be used. Embarrassment isn't needed, as millions of folk own sex dolls, the market has expanded dramatically in the last decade, and the social stigma has faded quickly, which makes owning one a personal decision and not a flaw in character.
 
You shouldn't feel you have to treat her like a person either. Certain owners build detailed characters and characters for their dolls, which is great and element of the appeal for many people, but you do not have to, and if you just would like a doll for sexual satisfaction and companionship without the roleplay, that is a totally valid way to use one. Get the day-to-day side right and the rest is individual taste, since nobody else gets to decide on how you use something you've paid for.
 
Each owner ends up with their own routine, and mine, for whatever it is worth, is basic. Spend a short while limbering up the joints ahead of every session to be sure nothing is rigid, rather than the whole hour from the first time, and powder at the end of every clean no matter what. Verify the dye test on any new clothes even if you've used the same brand before, keep a backup wig within reach since synthetic material takes longer to dry out than you'd expect and you don't want to be waiting, and keep her correctly every time. None of this is fiddly, it is just the regime that maintains your doll in top condition for many years on end on end in place of months.
 
The initial month teaches you much of what you have to know, and early slip-ups tend to be minor ones if you take care. Difficulties that show up later are the pricey ones, and they nearly always come down to something skipped in the opening weeks. A joint freed up too aggressively, a material tested on the doll as opposed to a cloth, a storage solution that looked okay until the pressure pressed down into it. Slow down at the start and the rest takes care of itself.
 
You will also need to know what to do when something eventually goes wrong, since it will. Maybe a tear in the armpit, a loose joint, or a dye mark that will not come out. The instinct is to panic and assume the doll is done for, but virtually everything short of a snapped frame is fixable if you deal with it early. Compact splits are handled by TPE patch kits, which cost practically nothing. Loose joints can be tightened or changed. Blemishes will not come out, and that is why the cloth try counts for so much. Find out which difficulties are fixable and stop worrying about the ones that aren't.
 
A doll is a significant investment and it deserves respect, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." You will get years out of her if you ease the joints, powder her routinely, and put away her correctly, but if you skip those things you will be replacing her much sooner than you expected. The initial week is the hardest element, and after that it becomes habit. More info at this rosslink. Also check out  why not find out more (https://zivotkostelecnadlabem.cz/viewtopic.php?t=1049) and don't forget  helpful hints (http://forum.ruchkontroliwyborow.pl/index.php?topic=118669.new) and  look at here now (http://guitarproof.free.fr/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=2787) for more.