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How To Use A Sex Doll: A Beginner's Guide To Getting It Right
Your first doll is either here already or on the way. Either way, there's a moment of mild panic as you unbox a 35 kg silicone human, stand there in your living space, and think: now what? The answer to that question is what follows here. No filler and no assumption that you already know what you're doing, just the hands-on essentials you will truly need in week one plus the things that will spare you from costly slip-ups in month one. A second read after she arrives will make much more sense than the first, so go through it once in advance and once afterwards, when you will area things you missed the first time.
 
Once she's out of the package, shifting her about gets much harder, so a handful of jobs are worth doing before you even open it. Settle exactly where she's going to live, and "somewhere in the bedroom" does not count, so pick an actual area like a cupboard, a corner, or a carry case. Dolls are weighty and difficult to manage, and you do not would like to be improvising storage at 11 p.m. with an unclothed doll in your arms. Dye transfer is a real risk, so obvious the space she'll rest on, which could be a bed, floor, or storage container, and verify it's clean and free of dark-toned blankets, low-quality fabrics, and anything else that might lose colour. A carpeted floor needs something smooth underneath her. If you've got a low bed, verify that it is not going to sink under her pressure with time.
 
Get everything you need ready before she arrives:
1. Cornflour or baby powder (for TPE dolls)
2. A blow-dryer (for softening joints)
3. A spotless, pale cloth (for the cloth try)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a standard hairbrush)
5. Drying stands (for the cavities)
6. Mineral oil designed for TPE (if applicable)
7. A soft make-up brush (for powdering)
 
None of this breaks the bank, but all of it matters. The whole kit will cost you maybe twenty pounds and it is the variation among a doll that stays in top condition and one that does not. Open the package attentively in place of tearing into it, and if the package is damaged, image it before you open it, as that is your only safeguard for a return claim. Inspect her quickly once the box is open: look for rips in the armpits and groin, be sure all fingers are unbroken, and verify the head sculpt matches what you paid for. Speak to the vendor before you do anything else if something's wrong, and snap it right away, as a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
 
Next comes the part that takes virtually every new buyer by surprise: she will feel inflexible. The joints are tight from the factory, which is entirely regular and does not mean anything is damaged. Before you can pose her, you should free up the joints, and the technique is basic. Set a blow-dryer to warm, not hot, and soften the TPE at each joint, after that steadily move each joint through its complete range of movement, covering the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. Don't force anything, and if a joint will not move, warm it up some more. Give this a full hour. That seems like considerably, but it's the distinction among a doll you will in fact pose and a doll that ends up locked in one position because you gave up.
 
She's heavier than she looks, which catches everyone. 35 kg does not seem like much up to the point you lift her from a low position and the load is concentrated in the wrong places, so stick to proper lifting technique: squat down and lift with your legs as opposed to your back. Bear hug her where possible, taking hold under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, since the closer she is to your centre of balance, the less load you will feel. Seeing as TPE and silicone both hold body warmth reasonably well, she's warmer than you expect, and she'll feel less plastic than you'd probably expected the first time you feel her sensibly. This is the principal reason people call their dolls lifelike, not as of movement or AI, but as the fabric genuinely yields to feel in a method that startles you.
 
TPE gets clammy with time, especially in high temperatures or after cleansing, so powder her often: a light layer of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft powder brush maintains the finish smooth and clean, and it should be done at the end of every cleansing session. Occasional oiling is also needed, seeing as TPE sheds oil in time, and a light coat of mineral oil made specifically for TPE dolls every couple of months maintains the fabric soft and prevents splitting, though using too much oil makes the exterior slippery and collects dust faster than parched skin does, so don't go overboard.
 
Consider of cleansing as a procedure, not a one-off. After use:
1. Take out any inserts and wash them separately
2. Clean the orifices with lukewarm water and mild detergent
3. Dry everything totally with drying supports (between 15 and 20 minutes)
4. Dust the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Put her away correctly
 
This aspect isn't optional: skip it and mould will be forming inside her in as little as a few weeks. The complete regime takes close to 45 minutes, which is longer than many people anticipate, and it is the chief reason long-term owners switch to removable liners, which cut that time approximately in half.
 
This is where novice owners make the worst misstep, seeing as they do not think about storage until it is an issue. Hanging is best, using a heavy-duty ceiling mount rated for at least 60 kg with a dedicated loop, which maintains her in one pose without placing pressure on the joints, and this is the method most old hands use. Storing her lying down works too, but be careful: smooth surfaces are fine and uneven ones aren't, and leaving her on her back for long periods can flatten the buttocks or breasts, so vary the position periodically. Keep her out of strong sunlight at all times, since UV damages both TPE and silicone and discolours wigs and painted details fast, which makes a cupboard or a covered carry case ideal.
 
Most of the countless opinions the internet has about owning dolls are false or overstated. She's not made of glass, so there's no need to be "careful" in the sense of tiptoeing around her: yes, she's bulky and her joints need attention, but she's also designed to be used. You do not have to be sheepish, as millions of owners own sex dolls, the market has expanded tremendously in the last ten years, and the taboo has faded quickly, so if you've chosen to own one, that is an individual choice and not a flaw in character.
 
Treating her like a person isn't a requirement either. Plenty of owners build detailed characters and personas for their dolls, which is great and aspect of the appeal for many people, but it is optional, and wanting a doll for sexual satisfaction and companionship without the roleplay is a totally valid way to use one. Get the real-world side right and the rest is individual taste, seeing as nobody else gets to decide on how you use something you've paid for.
 
Each owner ends up with their own procedure, and mine, if it helps, is straightforward. Limber up the joints before each session, not the whole hour from the first time but just a couple of minutes to be sure nothing is inflexible, and powder following every clean without exception. Examine the dye check on any fresh clothing even if you've used the same brand before, keep a backup wig to hand because synthetic material takes longer to dry off than you'd expect and you do not wish to be waiting, and put away her attentively every time. Nothing here is fiddly, it is simply the regime that holds your doll in top condition for a long time on end in place of months.
 
Month one teaches you most of what you should know, and early errors tend to be inexpensive ones when you're careful. Problems that show up later are the pricey ones, and they nearly always come down to something skipped in the opening weeks. Examples include a joint eased too aggressively, a cloth tested on the doll in place of a cloth, and a storage method that appeared fine until the load pressed down into it. Take it slowly at the start and the rest takes attention of itself.
 
You will also need to know what to do when something eventually goes wrong, seeing as it will. A tear in the armpit, a loose joint, a blemish that will not come out. The instinct is to panic and assume the doll is done for, but nearly everything short of a broken skeleton is fixable if you spot it early. Patch kits for TPE cost very little and deal with compact rips. Tightening or replacing loose joints is possible. Stains will not come out, and that is why the cloth test makes such a difference. Learn where the fixable issues are and stop stressing about the ones that aren't.
 
A doll is a significant investment that deserves proper handling, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." You will get years out of her if you ease the joints, powder her routinely, and put away her attentively, but if you skip those things you will be replacing her much sooner than you expected. After a tough first week, it becomes habit. More info at this rosslink. Also check out  navigate to these guys (http://talknaija.com/viewtopic.php?t=300602) not to mention  you can look here (http://guitarproof.free.fr/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=2705) and  why not look here (https://dreamstation.site/showthread.php?tid=5380) for more.