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After Unboxing: How To Joint-Loosen Your Sex Doll The Right Way
Now that she's unboxed and looking incredible, you try bending her arm into a pose, but it won't move. You try again with more force. Still no give at all. You're suddenly convinced you've damaged her, or that she arrived damaged, or that you've wasted your money. Pause right there. This is totally usual, and the solution is simpler than you think.
 
Break In Before You Pose
Deliberate tightness is what you're seeing, not a manufacturing mistake; dolls arrive with tight joints from the factory. To hold a pose standing, sitting or lying in any position, the joints have to be tight enough. A loose joint on a heavy doll is worse than a tight one, since the doll then can't hold any pose at all. Manufacturers play safe and err on the side of tight, so you'll need to break the joints in before you can use them properly.
 
Tight Now, Perfectly Balanced in a Week or Two
Why the joints are tight is the first thing worth understanding. Out of the box, a hefty doll with loose joints, which must support significant weight, will sag within hours of being posed. Joints that start tight can be loosened gradually over time, avoiding looseness too swiftly, which gives the doll a longer handy life. You can work in a doll that arrives stiff over the course of a week or two, ending with perfectly balanced joints. A doll that arrives loose has no way to tighten back up, and you'll be fighting sagging within months.
 
Weight-Bearing Joints vs Light Joints
The second point is that each joint has its own level of tightness. The hip, knee, and shoulder joints are typically the tightest, because they bear the most weight. Because they bear less weight, the neck, wrist and ankle joints are ordinarily looser. Elbows and wrists sit somewhere in the middle. With this knowledge you can set expectations, since the experience differs between joints and the hips in particular might take considerably more effort to break in than the neck.
 
The Details That Matter
Details matter in the method for loosening joints, which is otherwise uncomplicated. Heat each joint for thirty to sixty seconds with a hairdryer held about six inches away, on a warm setting and never a hot one. Softened TPE around the joint, courtesy of the warm air, means easier movement without stressing the surrounding material. Warm joint, mild movement: take it through its full range of motion several times and don't force anything. Repeat for every joint, moving through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees and ankles in order.
 
How Heat Helps Joints Hold Their New Position
As a thermoplastic, TPE softens under heat and firms up as it cools, so the warm-up is critical. Warming the joint temporarily softens the material so it moves more easily, then when the doll cools down, the material firms back up and the joint holds its new position. The same reasoning covers a doll that feels stiff at first and is much more pliable after a warm-up, and one that has sat in a cold room and stays stubborn even after weeks of use.
 
Timing Each Joint During the First Session
A full hour is the right amount of time for the first session. The hour sounds excessive, though it separates a doll you'll in fact pose from a doll that ends up stuck in one position because you gave up. Spend ten minutes on the neck, ten on each shoulder and elbow, ten on each hip and knee, and five on each wrist and ankle. Each joint should be moved slowly through its full range, with no forcing, and you should stop if it resists more than it ought to. Warm it up some more and attempt again.
 
Several Sessions for Heavy Dolls
The most stubborn joints are the hips, which is why they deserve their own mention. The most weight lands on the hips, which are usually the tightest joints on the doll. Genuinely difficult to move at first, the hip joints on a weighty doll can take a number of sessions to feel natural. Try not to panic if the hips won't move on the first day. Warm them up, move them as far as they'll go, then stop and attempt again tomorrow. Hips regularly need a week or two to thoroughly break in, and that's usual.
 
Shoulders: The Second Most Stubborn
Shoulder joints are the runners-up when it comes to stubbornness. They're normally locked tight to keep the arms from sagging when she's standing, and they carry important weight too. Take the shoulders through their full range of motion, which includes raising the arms forward, backward and to the side, and stop if anything feels like it's resisting. Normally patience and warmth will coax a shoulder that won't raise fully into position; forcing it just damages the joint.
 
Breaking in Knee Joints
Between the two extremes you'll find the knee joints. Tighter than the arms but easier than the hips, the knees need their full range worked, including bending, straightening and small rotation. Elbows are looser and hips are tighter; the knees, designed to hold the doll upright, sit between them. Extreme positions should wait until the knees have been faulty in properly, and in the meantime work them slowly through their range of motion.
 
Be Gentle With the Loosest Joint
You'll ordinarily find the neck joint loosest, because it bears the least weight. Expect it to move relatively freely from the start, even if it needs a little warmth to go through its full range. The neck is both the easiest joint to break in and the easiest to damage by forcing, so be mild even though it feels looser. Free-moving necks are a sign of expressive dolls; stiff necks suggest dolls that are harder to pose naturally.
 
Don't Force Extreme Positions
Between the two extremes you'll find the wrist and ankle joints. If you're not attentive, they can be tight enough to cause difficulties, even though they don't bear much weight and are generally reasonably loose. Take them through their full range of bending, rotation and flexing, and don't force them into extreme positions until they've been faulty in. A tight ankle makes it hard to stand the doll, and a too-tight wrist makes it hard to pose the hands.
 
The Difference You Can See in Every Pose
Rule one: never force anything. Never. You can snap the skeleton or tear the material by forcing a joint, and both are pricey repairs that could have been evaded. Warm it more if a joint won't move. If there's still no movement, stop and try again tomorrow. It's apparent in every pose she holds whether a doll was faulty in properly or forced, and the complete technique comes down to patience.
 
Room Temperature and Stiffness
A handful of functional tips will smooth the process. The material is influenced by ambient temperature, so if possible work in a warm room, where a doll feels less stiff than in a cold one. Be liberal with the hairdryer, and keep it on hand. After shipping the doll needs to settle, so skip loosening the joints on the first day; a day of rest will make the material more soft when you do start.
 
How Long Breaking In Really Takes
The process runs for about a week, with a session each day that's shorter than the previous one. The first session runs longest, about an hour, the second perhaps forty minutes, and from the fourth or fifth on you only need five or ten minutes to move each joint through its range and confirm everything is working. Following a week, the joints will feel natural and posing the doll will take no effort. If you skip this process, you've acquired a poseable doll for nothing: she stays stiff and you end up evading poses that need movement.
 
Why the First Week Decides Everything
Correct joint loosening pays off considerably. She holds any pose for hours without sagging and switches position in seconds rather than minutes, offered she was non-working in correctly. Even when you're trying to pose her upright, a doll that's been forced will sag into a slouch, with loose joints within months. What separates the two is entirely how you handle the first week, because only then are the joints breakable-in rather than already set.
 
Don't Wait Until a Joint Is Completely Loose
When heavy use over time leaves a joint too loose, a way to tighten it generally exists. Skeletons with adjustable screws, which are only some, can have their tension restored by a small adjustment. Where adjustment isn't possible you need a replacement joint, which is more costly but cheaper than purchasing the whole doll again. Ask the producer what adjustment is possible on your specific doll, and deal with a joint before it's completely loose; catching it early makes it easier to fix.
 
The Bottom Line on Stiff Joints
The bottom line is straightforward: day-one stiffness is a feature, not a problem. Tight because they need to be, the joints are part of the ownership experience, and so is loosening them. Take it slowly, use heat, work each joint prudently, and force nothing. After a week of effort, which is all it takes, you have a doll that poses naturally for years. More info at this rosslink. Also check out  his explanation (https://forum.makethemmove.com/showthread.php?tid=90002) not forgetting sites such as  click to read more (https://forum.krystynajanda.pl/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=103039) and  check these guys out (http://crewride.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=640456) for more.